The color ‘jjok’ (쪽) and its significance in the Korean culture
Jjok is the Korean name for the unique blue color that comes from the Indigo plant.
As you can see below, this is how this plant actually looks like:
https://khartasia-crcc.mnhn.fr/en/common_names_en/jjok
This specific nuance of blue (or indigo) cannot be created by any synthetic process, which makes it highly valuable and sought after.
In Korea there are not many living masters who are able to obtain this unique blue. However, JUNG, Kwan-chae is one of the few masters. He was named an Important Intangible Cultural Property (No. 115) with more than 30 years of expertise in the field.
Indigo dyeing is not unique to Korea as many countries around the world have mastered this art form with different methods. Japan is very known for its steam-dyeing process in creating the color indigo. In fact, the Japanese indigo tradition originates from the Edo period when Japan invaded Korea and kidnapped masters in color dyeing to perfect the process in Japan. With the Japanese invasion again in the 1900s this art form was almost lost if not for YE, Yong-hae who brought back seeds from Japan to start growing this plant again in Korea. It was then discovered that this plant was continuing to grow in Naju, where Jung Kwan-chae originates from, in Jeollanam-do Province.
Essentially, creating this unique ‘jjok’ color is a very extensive process that starts with the ‘jjok’ seeds sown in the spring and harvested at dawn in July/August. The exact timing of the harvest is highly dependent on the expertise of the master who will determine the right time, which will then impact how the color will turn out.
Once the stalks are sown they are rested in a jar of water for 2 days and then oyster shells are added to this mixture which will start changing the color of the water.
The mixture needs an additional 15 days before the dye is ready.
The jar of ‘jjok’ has to be fermented in a room heated by traditional underfloor heating used in ‘hanoks’ (traditional Korean homes). Fabrics made with this dye also repel insects and were considered luxurious gifts given to the King.
Jung currently has about 10 apprentices working with him, and he is nicknamed “the dokkaebi” - the goblin - because you never know when you will see him due to his busy schedule. He produces about three tons of dye a year but only sells it to those who know how to use it.
His main wish is for this art form to be more known to the public and also to receive more recognition by the public.
I hope this article has provided a small interest for this incredible dyeing process and the history associated with it.
Here are brief videos on what ‘jjok’ dyeing looks like below:
All sources and photos are from “Masters of Traditional Korean Handicrafts” text.
Additional images of the ‘jjok’ plant are from https://khartasia-crcc.mnhn.fr/en/common_names_en/jjok
Thank you all for reading.
#koreanculture #indigodyeing #jjok #한국문화 #쪽빛 #koreanculturalcentercanada
